Hair Extensions

Nov 28, 2023

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Getting hair extensions? Read this first.

Whether you're lusting after waist-length, beachy summer waves or just want a half decent ponytail for once in your life, hair extensions can be the instant solution to all your long hair issues.

But, and this is a big but people, it's important to know what you're actually getting for your money. Because dodgy hair extensions and glue-damaged leftovers is so not hot.

We got in touch with the hair extension experts to get the lowdown on everything you need to know before you take the plunge. Consider your hair extension questions answered.

If there's one person that knows everything there is to know about hair extensions it's Sarah McKenna aka the ex-biochemist, hairdresser and owner of the hottest hair extension salon in London, Vixen & Blush (aka where Alicia Vikander gets her hair extensions done).

Renowned for creating natural-looking extensions that are super high quality and custom-made to fit you (this isn't your cheapo out of the packet deal), Sarah is the go-to on how to nab Blake Lively's 'do and avoid the dreaded Jodie Marsh mullet.

'There are a vast number of ways to fit additional hair but there are three main categories,' explains McKenna.

'Temporary methods include clip-in pieces, wefts and weaves where large pieces of hair are added.'

'Semi-permanent hair extensions include tape-in pieces that last around 6-8 weeks. These are smaller sections than clip-ins and the new Invisible Tape extensions are almost completely undetectable when hair is down or worn up.'

'Permanent methods are strand-by-strand meaning many small attachments are added. Examples include micro rings or micro bonds.'

'Temporary methods are great for occasional wear and are usually used by those who like their own hair but just want to enhance their look for the weekend, or for a special event,' says McKenna.

'Clip in hair extensions are excellent as they can be easily clipped in and styled in minutes and then removed just as easily. Permanent methods are good for those who are disappointed with their own hair and feel they need additional hair to gain extra volume, length or both on a daily basis.

'The micro ring method is the most popular method at Vixen & Blush because it is a re-usable method - clients can refit the same hair many times. However, the Invisible Tape hair extensions are a great option for those with fine hair that want to bulk it out on a semi-permanent basis.'

According to Education & Creative Manager for Great Lengths, Louise Jenkins, it's all about using your hair extensions for volume in 2021. 'We're definitely going to see hair extensions used more and more for thickening and volumising techniques this year,' says Jenkins.

'The trend at the moment is to look really natural and really effortless, using undetectable methods to enhance and emphasise your existing style. If you've got a bob, you might want to add thickness to the base line, if you’ve got long hair you might want extra volume and texture.'

'It's always best to choose 100% human hair as other synthetic pieces are not a convincing alternative!,' advises McKenna. 'It is also advisable to invest in the highest quality hair you can afford. At Vixen & Blush we only work with real hair and although it is expensive, the hair will last for many refits so the cost in the longer term is a lot more affordable.

'Synthetic hair is usually unnaturally shiny and also does not allow for heat styling. It is a lot lighter weight than human hair (which is surprisingly heavy!) and so will never move in quite the same way.

'Also the methods used to fit synthetic hair do not allow for a multi-tonal colour match as they are produced in block colours. All clients need a mix of colours/shades to get a true colour match.'

'This really comes down to education, providing your stylist has been trained properly- regardless of what method of hair extensions you are using you won't cause any damage to the hair.,' explains Jenkins.

'This is still one of the biggest misconceptions about hair extensions - at Great Lengths we pride ourselves on our two-day assessed certification that is absolutely mandatory for every stylist that wants to use Great Lengths. We need to make sure that everyone certified stylist that can offer a bespoke service for their individual clients, a service that is suitable for the hair and causes no damage.

'With our certification we’re confident that everyone is receiving the same service, no matter which Great Lengths salon/ stylist they go to. We encourage our stylists to take before and after, and also take a picture after Great Lengths have been removed so you can really see the difference and that no damage has been caused. '

'The cost of hair extensions varies so widely even just in the UK that it's difficult to know what is an appropriate price to pay,' says McKenna.

'Permanent hair extensions will cost more than temporary hair extensions as they do take time to fit. A full head of hair extensions will take 2 or 3 hours to fit, so you're paying for the labour costs. But most of the price you pay will be for the cost of the product itself - and this therefore means that it can be an expensive service.

'It is worth going to a specialist salon and having some test pieces of hair fitted first, and then investing in the best quality hair you can afford up front, knowing that you can re-use the hair.

'However, there are some salons that do overcharge based on being located in large flagship premises in a prestigious area (especially in London). This will obviously impact the overall price charged.

'Temporary hair extensions vary even more widely. If you're just going to wear the hair for one or two uses then buying less expensive hair is a good choice. But, if you would like to use the pieces repeatedly over years then investing in high-quality hair is essential as this is the only grade of human hair that will last for many years.'

The key take away? Don't be tempted to remove permanent or semi-permanent hair extensions yourself, always get them removed at the hair salon you had them fitted. This isn't a DIY situation people!

Fine and looking for volume. In your consultation your hair stylist should give you a realistic and responsible idea of how many pieces can be fitted and where to place them for the most natural finish that won't damage your own hair.

The Invisible Tape hair extensions look ridiculously natural and take far less time to fit than individual micro rings. A piece of your own hair is placed between two 'tape' pieces and sandwiched using a clamp - no heat, glue or rings required.

They only last 6-8 weeks and are available in 17inch length max, which is still pretty damn long but if you're going for the Kim K mermaid look you'll be disappointed.

The Invisible Tapes are available in 30 set shades rather than being dyed to match your hair. Your hairstylist will match the closest shade to the last 5 inches of your natural hair.

The individual pieces contain more hair than micro rings which makes them a little heavier, however, this means that you need less of them so the weight balances out about the same.

This depends on how many pieces you have fitted. Prices start from £185 for 6 pairs up to £545 for 18 pairs. Refitting the pieces costs less.

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Micro rings or the micro bonding methods last for 3-4 months before needing to be re-fitted (as they have grown 1.5 inches away from your scalp).

Clip in hair extensions are fitted in and out daily.

Other methods such as tape or weaves last 6-8 weeks.

'Anyone who has active hair loss should never get hair extensions as wearing them could mask what is happening with the natural hair and delay any action taken to treat the hair loss,' cautions McKenna.

'Any clients with unusually fine hair along with very sparse hair (not dense enough) should avoid using hair extensions but this is less than 1% of the female population.

'Otherwise the guidance is to match the amount of hair added with the density of the clients own hair. So, finer-haired clients should add less hair in than those with more dense hair.'

Caring for hair extensions isn't difficult.

1. Avoid oiliness at the roots to prevent the connections from slipping or going sticky.

2. No inverting your head upside down head or in high ponytails as this pulls on the underside of the connection.

3. No aggressive pulling.

Otherwise, washing, drying and styling hair extensions is very much the same as with your natural hair as long as they're good quality.

Hair extensions should never be left in for more than 4 months or after 2 inches of regrowth. Always return to the salon to have them removed professionally.

...and make sure that the result you want is achievable with how much hair you have currently. If you have thin hair and it's short, you can only add enough hair extensions to add maybe 5 inches of length - adding 10 inches is not advisable!

Having hair extensions is an investment of your time and money. You should go to the salon and have a consultation and have test pieces of hair extensions put in. You can then wear those for at least a week to see how the method and the hair type suit you.

You should never compromise with the colour match as even a slight difference is noticeable. You should also never have to dye your own hair to match hair extensions.

Any good hair stylist wants to share their knowledge with you and cares about you and your new hair, so you should be able to ask any question and expect a thorough, informative response. Hair extensions can change your appearance drastically, so you should feel comfortable and be able to ask their stylist lots of questions.

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